– Аз съм над голямата сива кула. Не съм далече. Не съм далече
– Дръж се, Ицо, идват. Идват към тебе, дръж се.
– Стефчо, аз не съм в лагер пет, не съм в лагер пет. Аз…
– Вижда ли се от теб пети лагер… палатката?
– Не мога да го видя оттука. Аз съм на жълтия пояс.
– Ице, ти си голям мъж, не заспивай! Ти си българин! Всичко е ОК, към тебе тичат хора. Моля те, не заспивай! НЕ ЗА-СПИ-ВАЙ!!!
Този разговор, накъсван постоянно от смущения в радиостанциите, е проведен на 21 април 1984 г. между Стефан Калоянов – радист на Първата българска експедиция до Еверест и Христо Проданов – българинът, който пръв се качва на върха на света. Макар и над 30 години по-късно, емоциите в думите на Стефан Калоянов не могат да оставят никого безчувствен.
Дори и да си от това поколение, родено около и след 1984 г., няма как силната емоция да не обхване и теб. Няма как да не си чувал тези думи, да не почувстваш тревожната молба, казана почти с плачещ глас – НЕ ЗА-СПИ-ВАЙ… защото тук не става дума само за едно велико спортно постижение, за една зловеща и смъртоносна схватка между човек и екстремна природа… тук говорим за нещо още по-голямо – за човешката мечта и нейното преследване. Затова и 30-ина години по-късно драмата с Христо Проданов е все толкова вълнуваща и актуална. И ще бъде такава докато човек не изгуби и най-възвишеното си качество, което го отделя от всички други живи същества на планетата – да мечтае и да се опитва да превърне мечтите си в реалност.
Преди известно време в интернет доби страхотна популярност една статия, която представяше книгата на австралийката Бруни Уеър – медицинска сестра, прекарала няколко години в грижи за пациенти в терминална фаза през последните дни от живота им. Тя записвала последните думи на умиращите и най-вече това, за което те съжаляват най-много. Безспорно на първо място е било поставяне съжалението, че хората не са имали смелостта да живеят така, както самите те са искали. „Това беше най-често изразяваното съжаление от всички. Когато хората осъзнаят, че животът им е почти към края си, поглеждайки назад те виждат колко от мечтите им са останали неизпълнени. Повечето не са осъществили дори половината от мечтите си и трябва да стигнат до смъртта, за да разберат, че това се дължи на избора, който сами са направили – или не са направили”, пише Бруни Уеър.
Е, спокойно можем да кажем, че когато в агонизиращите си последни минути, седнал на върха на света, Христо Проданов е вдигнал поглед, той е видял само небето и е знаел, че е изпълнил най-голямата си мечта. „Първата българска експедиция до Еверест беше експедицията на Христо Проданов. Тя беше неговата мечта. Помня как, когато влизах в кабинета му, навсякъде бяха разхвърляни маршрути, снимки, карти, записки, въобще всичко, което можеше да се намери по онова време за Западния гребен”, разказва племенницата на алпиниста Светлана Проданова-Каменова. – Той се занимаваше дори и с експерименталната храна, предназначена за космонавти, с която за първи път щеше да бъде изпратена експедиция до Хималаите. Затова замина и по-рано от София, защото трябваше чисто организационно да се направят много неща, той се занимаваше и с подбора на шерпите, че дори и на яковете. Христо Проданов дишаше и се хранеше с мисълта, че ще има шанса да изкатери Еверест”, допълва спомените си племенничката на алпиниста и сестра на Марияна Масларова – момичето, тръгнало по стъпките на своя чичо и загинало по същия начин – на слизане от върха точно 20 години по-късно.
На 20 април 1984 г., рано сутринта, Христо Проданов тръгва от щурмовия лагер към сбъдването на своята мечта. Много са слуховете и историите, които се разказват за обстановката и атмосферата в българския лагер. Според някои Проданов е имал болна амбиция на всяка цена да е първият, покорил върха, че е трябвало да катери с Иван Вълчев, но е отказал и т.н. „Естествено, че алпинистите са хора със страхотно его, но да се говори за едва ли не войнствена обстановка в нашия лагер е меко казано несериозно”, разказва Светлана. Нейните думи нямат нужда от потвърждение. Достатъчно е да си припомним с каква жертвоготовност тръгват останалите да търсят Христо. Людмил Янков жертва собствената си мечта да щурмува върха, не се подчинява на заповедта да преустанови търсенето, изкачва денивелация от 1300 метра за няколко часа и прекарва цяла вечер на над 8000 метра. В следствие на геройството си загубва и четири пръста на ръцете си.
„Това само по себе си е огромно геройство, страхотна саможертва. Защото дори, колкото и невъзможно да е това някой алпинист да намери свой колега в затруднено състояние на такава височина, той няма как да спаси живота му. Може единствено да прекара с него няколко минути, колкото другият да не умре сам, да сподели очакването на неизбежната смърт. Това, което Людмил Янков е направил е проява на невероятен хуманизъм, приятелство и геройство ”, обяснява Светлана Проданова-Каменова. А ситуацията с Христо Проданов наистина е била един низ от случайности, които са му попречили да успее да се върне до лагера. „Той се чувстваше в страхотна форма, всички от експедицията са знаели, че той ще катери пръв, защото е бил най-подготвен. Дори и без кислородна маска, макар и по най-сложния маршрут и то в месец като април, когато никой не се качва заради непредвидимите атмосферни условия, никой не е мислил, че Христо е нямал волята и подготовката да успее”, допълва племенницата на алпиниста.
На съдбовния 20 април 1984 г. Христо и шерпът Ринджи са събудени по радиостанцията малко преди 3 часа сутринта и им е съобщено, че атмосферните условия са идеални за атака на върха. Двамата обаче се забавят и тръгват след повече от два часа (което е съвсем логично, като говорим, че те се намират на 8000 метра и още няма 3 часа сутринта). Драмата започва на 8200 метра, когато пред двамата се изправя 90-метрова скала с обратен наклон. Христо я качва без проблеми, но шерпът Ринджи, отлично подготвен физически, но неможещ да катери отвесни скални участъци, не успява. Пропада и опитът на Проданов да го изтегли. Вероятно там са загубени много време и сили. Шерпът слиза надолу, а Христо продължава сам към върха.
Може би в този момент Проданов е крачил към върха с ясната мисъл и съзнанието, че шансът да оцелее е минимален, нищожен, ако не и никакъв. Но той е вървял метър по метър напред и нагоре към целта, към мечтата си. А тя е достигната, макар и фатално късно – след 18 часа на 20 април. Сеща се, че е забравил българското знаме в една от раниците си надолу по склона, но оставя фотоапарата си и откъсва част от стоящото там съветско знаме. Това му отнема цели 33 минути – също фатално дълго. Но въпреки това звучи щастлив и спокоен по радиостанцията. Въпреки, че не носи спален чувал за бивакуване, а сигналните ракети в пистолета му се оказват негодни, той успокоява останалите, че ще намери място да спи под върха, защото на тъмно слизане е невъзможно. След тревожната нощ за колегите му и радостта за България, на следващия 21 април, новината, че Христо все още не се е завърнал в лагера достига и до родината. Въпреки че са разделени от 6000 км., алпинистите в Хималаите и българите по домовете си тръпнат едновременно в очакване изглеждащата все по-малко вероятна щастлива развръзка да се случи. И слушат последните и задъхани думи на първия българин, изкачил Еверест. И ги запомнят, както и запомнят примера, който Христо оставя след себе си – изживей мечтите си.
Малко преди да тръгне към осъществяването на мечтата си, Христо Проданов заявява: „Аз не съм самоуверен, но в същото време твърдо вярвам, че ще направя всичко възможно да се стъпи на Еверест. Но най-огромното ми желание е нашата експедиция да завърши успешно, да завърши успешно не само с изкачване на кой да е от нашите алпинисти, но всички живи и здрави да се върнем в България. Това ще бъде най-големият ми успех, всичко останало е пепел”.
Автор: Атанас Мецов
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